The bus ride from Copan to La Ceiba was uneventful and we were glad when we made it to the Utila ferry. One problem: the next ferry didn't leave for hours! You'd think some young entrepreneur would have set up a food stand or entertainment or something at the ferry station, but aside from some questionable sandwiches at the neighboring Roatan ferry station, there was nothing. I guess that's why we chose Utila instead of Cancun,it's not your ordinary souvenir shop/Senor Frog's combo...but they still could have had a burrito stand or something :)
Once the ferry arrived, we were elated! We all got on board and prepared ourselves for a lovely ride to Utila. One more problem: we weren't going anywhere and the enclosed seating area was starting to suffocate it's passengers. It felt like there was no oxygen and the walls were closing in. Ryan would tell you that I'm exaggerating, but I still say I only had minutes left before I decided to wait outside for the crew to do their thing.
Eventually, we were on our way and falling asleep on the rocking ferry was pretty easy after another full day of traveling. You'd think a nap on a hard plastic booth would be uncomfortable, and it was, but aside from that minor detail, it was still sleep and it was wonderful.
When we arrived in Utila, the dock was filled with passengers trying to get their luggage from the ferry crew who decided that the most efficient and orderly way to unload our luggage was onto a giant pile. After spotting a dock spider the side of my head, I gently nudged Ryan towards the pile and casually ran as fast as I could to the other side of the dock.
The friend that Che was meeting in Utila, Dane, walked us to a hostel that he described as a "sweatbox but cheap", which is what all ladies dream of when they imagine romantic getaways, and we were formally introduced to Parrot's Dive Center/Hostel. (I wanted to include a link but they do not seem to have a website. If you're interested: from the ferry, turn left and walk about a block. Parrot's is on your left..Utila isn't very complicated!)The people who work at Parrot's are all extremely friendly and make you envious of their sweet island life.
We hadn't really considered going diving on our trip to Honduras, but after hearing about the elusive Whale Shark and how they were currently visiting Utila, we changed our mind. (Plus, diving in Honduras is super inexpensive compared to most places)
We had a room to ourselves for about $10/night and although it didn't have a/c, it did have a fan that we pointed directly at our bodies while sleeping and this worked pretty well. (On the days you dive, you stay at the hostel for free)
Since it was my first time diving and since Ryan didn't have his dive certification card with him, we both decided to do the one day intro course. I had surgery on my sinuses the year before, so to be safe, I had to see the local doctor for an ear exam to make sure I was fit for diving. (Kind of ridiculous but it's a liability thing) One of the Parrot's staff came with me as my interpreter and other than "build up in my ears"...even more embarrassing when told through an interpreter...I was good to go!
Ryan pretty much was left alone to explore, but I needed a bit more help so the instructor stayed with me and basically steered me around the reef by my tank :) They tell you not to touch the coral since you can hurt it so I was terrified to get close and basically kept my arms crossed and my legs motionless.
After a day in Utila, you pretty much know or recognize everyone on the island. It's amazing how quickly you feel like you've always been in Utila and you always will be. There are more than a few expats that have come for a few days and find that a few years later, they've become permanent residents. At the charming Cafe Mariposa(Mariposa is Spanish for butterfly)the owner informed us that she had come from Sweden (Or the Netherlands?) and loved it so much she decided to make it her permanent home and now raises her children there. (By the way, the Cafe Mariposa has an amazing breakfast, with an amazing view of the ocean...get there early and you'll have the place to yourself like we did. Excellent beignets and coffee!)
If you have some time between dives, I suggest renting a bicycle or walking, less than a mile away from the busy street by the dock, to a peaceful beach that is usually only populated by a handful of people. The water is so clear and beautiful that you could relax there all day. If you grow restless though, you can walk a bit further to The Coral View Beach Resort's bar. The bar is at the end of a dock that leads to the ocean and if you buy a drink for a few dollars, you can snorkel there and enjoy the drink when you've finished. (You can rent snorkels from the Coral View or if you're diving with Parrot's, they'll let you borrow fins and a mask) There is a huge drop off not far from the shore and plenty of coral and wildlife to keep you entertained. (Be careful not to touch the coral, as it is very sensitive and you may damage it by accident)
Between diving, snorkeling, biking, exploring and eating at the many unique restaurants, we had a blast. Parrot's dive shop is located in front of Tranquila Bar which overlooks the ocean and is a great way to unwind at the end of the day. One of the dive instructors from Parrot's befriended us and told us about how he had made it from Canada to Utila to become one of the many people who fell in love with the island and couldn't leave.
We ended up staying in Utila longer than we planned and after 3 days we decided to get back on the ferry before we too fell under the island's spell. Unfortunately, we didn't see any whale sharks while we were diving, but we still had an amazing time and I would love to make it back there some day.
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